四国 (S H I K O K U)
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[Deutsche Version …]
The island of the 四 (shi, yon = four) 国 (koku, kuni = country). The name referes to the former provinces Iyo, Sanuki, Awa and Tosu. Today Shikoku consists of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Tokushima and Kochi. The old names are still present in many places. The official name of the Ozu train station is Iyo-Ozu. In the Iya valley you can order Sanuki Udon.
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Shikoku has no Shinkansen train station. The only connection to Honshu island by train is thru the Seto-Ohashi-Bridge. Beside that there are two car bridges and several ferry boats. The train network of Shikoku is completely or partially covered by several different Japan Rail Passes. But check out the travel times first. Without the Shinkansen everything takes a little bit longer than expected. And there is not a train going every 15 minutes. The clocks on Shikoku are ticking a little bit slower. (Rule: SHOULD is MUST if CAN.)
- MUST visit: Matsuyama mit Dogo Onsen
- should visit: Ozu, Uchiko, Kotohira, Iyatal (?)
- can visit: Takamatsu, Bando, Marugame (?)
- skip it: Tokushima
As a crash course of Shikoku I recommend Dogo Onsen with a trip to Ozu and Uchiko, and to Takamatsu with a trip to Kotohira and Marugame. More information follow as soon if I have them.
徳島 : Tokushima, Tokushimaken — skip it
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There is nothing in Tokushima that is worth a visit, with one exception: the most famous dance festival of Japan: the Tokushima Awa Odori. If that is reason enough to travel to Tokushima is your decision alone. The Koenji Awa Odori close to Tokyo is a good alternative. Tokushima has a ferry connection to Wakayama (Kansai) and is a hub in the Shikoku train networt. But for me it is still no option for a base camp.
坂東 : Bando, Tokushimaken — can, 1/2 Tag
In Bando located is the first temple of the 88 temple pilgrimage. Temple #2 and #3 are right around the corner. Temple #1 is nice but not worth the effort, if your not going to start the pilgrimage. You easily spend half a day for the visit. Bando train station is only serviced by one train an hour or even less. It takes you one hour or more to travel from/to Tokushima, that is only 6 train stations away. Just skip the temple and safe some time.
丸亀 : Marugame, Kagawaken — can, 1/2 Tag
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In Marugame are the ruins of the castle (walls and one watch tower). The view is awesome. You can see the complete Seto Ohashi bridge. There are boats leaving for the islands. Something I didn’t do and therefore can not write about. The visit of the castle is a detour of 2 hours. Marugame is the train station where the trains over the Seto Ohashi bridge depart.
琴平 : Kotohira, Kagawaken — SHOULD, 1 Tag
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Kotohira is a small town where nothing happens. But there is an old kabuki theatre and the shrine Kompirasan. Both really worth a visit. You can explore the complete town in less than a day. There is a direct train connection to Takamatsu by the Kotoden company. The JR is going over Marugame. With good planned you can visit Kotohira and Marugame within one day.
高松 : Takamatsu, Kagawaken — SHOULD, 1-2 Tage
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Takamatsu is a harbour city in the northeast of Shikoku. The castle site is converted into a nice park. In the south is the famous Ritsuri Koen. Other sightseeing sports are outside the city. Therefore I didn’t visit them. So far Takamatsu is a „should visit“. Takamatsu is tactical place to stay because of its location in the railroad network. (Even if I decided to stay in Kotohira).
祖谷渓 : Iyadani, Tokoshima — can, 1 Tag
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The Iya Valley has the Kazurabashi. A bridge with a certain adrenalin kick. Beside that, the Valley is a really remote place but a very good place for hiking. To get from A to B you need a rental car (you cannot rent at the place) or a lot of money for taxi rides. Buses are going very infrequently. Believe me. My sum up: If you don’t have car and are not into hiking, think about a visit twice.
松山 : Matsuyama, 道後温泉 : Dogo Onsen,
Ehimeken — MUST VISIT, 1 Tag
Matsuyama: wikipedia DE / wikipedia EN / japan-guide
Dogo Onsen: wikipedia DE / wikipedia EN / japan-guide
The castle of Matsuyama is a must visit. Beside the castle there is nothing else in Matsuyama but there is a tram to Dogo Onsen. The Dogo Onsen Honkan really is an eyecatcher. The train station is also a nice spot, also is the shrine. You can visit all of it within a day. But consider that getting there takes some time (Matsuyama-Takamatsu takes 3 hours). I recommend Dogo Onsen as a base camp. With a ferry boat to Hiroshima there is a nice travel option too.
大洲 : Iyo-Ozu, Ehimeken — SHOULD, 1/2 Tag
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The castle of Ozu is worth a visit. The castle was reconstructed in 2004 with traditional craftmanship and not by using concrete, like at other reconstructed castles. Garyo Sanso is the second sightseeing spot. You can skip the old town. It is not that fancy. Ozu and Uchiko can be visited within one day if you stay in Matsuyama. But it needs some planning (of the train connections).
内子 : Uchiko, Ehimeken — SHOULD, 1/2 Tag
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Uchiko hosts an old kabuki theatre, like Kotohira does. Beside that there an old pharmacy building that is converted into a small museum. There is a street with only old, traditional houses. This really is a nice spot but do not expect to much. At the end of the street is a small temple. Ozu and Uchiko can be visited within one day if you stay in Matsuyama. But it needs some planning (of the train connections). If time is short you shoud priorize Uchiko.
| Hautplinie (Nord) | Nebenlinie | Inseln |
|---|---|---|
| Matsuyama * | Kotohira * | Naoshima ** |
| Uchiko * | Iya Tal (Eingang) * | Shimanami Kaido |
| Ozu * | Kochi * | Shodoshima |
| Takamatsu * | Naruto | |
| Marugame | ||
| Tokushima | ||
| Uwajima |
Listed in the map but no sightseeing spots. There are places to change train or bus lines)
- Imabari (start of the Shimanami Kaido biking trail)
- Yawatahama (ferry boat to Kyushu)
- Kochi Airport, Matsuyama Airport, Takamatsu Airport, Tokushima Airport